What is hyperpigmentation?

Melanin in the substance in your skin that is responsible for skin colour.¹ Hyperpigmentation refers to an increased production of melanin in a patch of skin, making it darker than the skin surrounding it.²  Hyperpigmentation can happen for a variety of reasons, including various skin conditions and as a reaction after sun damage or skin injury.^2-4

What are the treatment options for hyperpigmentation?

Prevention is an excellent place to start (using sunscreen and avoiding sun exposure), but not all hyperpigmentation can be prevented.⁵ Management options include anti-ageing or skin-lightening products, while more intense treatments such as chemical peels or laser treatment are options that should be performed by a dermatologist.^4,5

Popular Skincare ingredients

Retinoid (Vitamin A)

Retinoid is a more powerful form of Retinol (a form of vitamin A⁶ ) with many uses in skin care. It’s used to treat acne and has anti-aging effects. Preformed vitamin A, or retinoids, is found in animal products like meat, poultry, and dairy. ProvitaminA, or carotenoids, is found in plant products like fruits and vegetables.Your skin is retinoid-responsive, which means it can readily absorb vitamin A when you apply it topically.

This ingredient does not remove dead skin cells, as many other products for mature skin do. Instead, the small molecules that make up retinol go deep beneath the epidermis (outer layer of skin) to your dermis, helping to promote the growth of new skin cells and the shedding of old skin cells. This helps to strengthen the protective function of the skin and minimise water loss from the skin barrier, helping to keep skin healthy and reduce the signs of photoageing.⁷ They also help keep melanin arranged evenly in the topmost layer of the skin (the epidermis).⁷

Niacinamide(vitamin B)

You may notice some skincare products that claim to help hyperpigmentation contain Vitamin B3, which is also known as niacinamide. Niacinamide helps to treat hyperpigmentation by reducing the transfer of cells that cause pigmentation to the skin cells that make up the topmost layer of the skin (the epidermis).^8,9

Skin-lightening agents

Skin-lightening agents, also known as ‘skin-bleaching’ or ‘skin-whitening’ agents, are products that can help manage different types of hyperpigmentation such as melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.^4,9 In general, skin-lightening agents work by blocking the production of melanin in the skin.¹ Below are some of the main skin-lightening ingredients and how they work.

Hydroquinone

Hydroquinone has been used as a skin-lightening agent since the 1930s.⁹ It works by blocking the final step in melanin production in the skin.⁹ Depending on the concentration of hydroquinone use, a product may be available for purchase over-the-counter (concentrations of 2% or less) or only available with a prescription (concentrations higher than 2%).⁹

Kojic acid 

Kojic acid comes from a species of fungus,⁹ and like hydroquinone and azelaic acid, it helps to manage hyperpigmentation by preventing the synthesis of melanin in the skin.¹  

L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) 

Vitamin C, sometimes listed as L-ascorbic acid in skincare ingredients, plays an important role in several skin processes. These include making collagen, acting as an antioxidant, and providing photoprotection (reducing skin damage from ultraviolet radiation).¹¹ In hyperpigmentation, it works in much the same way as the other skin-lightening agents discussed – helping to block the production of melanin.¹¹

Where can I find these ingredients? Consult a Healthcare Professional

If you have any concerns about your skin and potential hyperpigmentation, consider consulting a GP or dermatologist for professional advice. Rosemary Health can help. As a virtual healthcare provider, our clinical skincare specialists are available online – start your online visit for hyperpigmentation today.