What is skin aging?

Changes in the appearance of skin are among the most visible signs of ageing.¹ The process of skin ageing is complex, leading to changes in the structure, function, and appearance of your skin.^2,3 You may have heard that skin loses its elasticity and strength with ageing.¹ This is what leads to a leathery, weather-beaten appearance, particularly in people who spend a large amount of time outdoors.¹ In addition, ageing skin tends to look thinner, paler, and sometimes a bit transparent due to a decrease in the number of pigment-containing cells (melanocytes). Pigmented spots may also appear in sun-exposed areas.¹ Your skin also experiences a decline in its regenerative potential and its ability to function as barrier to the environment.^2,3

What influences skin ageing?

Skin ageing looks different from person to person. There are many factors contributing to the changes in your skin’s structure, function, and appearance as you age, including:^1,3 

• Environmental factors (e.g., ultraviolet (UV) radiation or mechanical stress such as stretching)
• Genetic makeup
• Hormonal changes
• Nutrition 

While these factors simultaneously contribute to the skin ageing process, the single biggest contributor is UV radiation from sun exposure.^1,3

Chronological ageing vs photoageing

There are two different processes involved in skin ageing: chronological aging and photoageing. Chronological ageing refers to the changes occurring within your body that influence skin ageing and are primarily determined by genetic factors. Photoageing occurs due to external factors, and mainly refers to changes to your skin resulting from sun damage. These changes are similar to the changes that you see with chronological skin ageng but are often considered signs of premature or early skin ageing.^2,3 

Retinoids and ageing

What are retinoids?

Retinoids are chemical compounds that either come from or have similar properties to vitamin A.⁴ They are used to treat hyperpigmentation, sun spots, and other signs of photoageing, acne and inflammation, uneven skin texture, and dryness.⁵ Retinoids exert these effects on skin in several ways, including:⁵ 

• Speeding cell turnover (promoting growth of new skin cells and shedding of old ones in the topmost layer of skin)
• Boosting collagen production
• Improving skin elasticity
• Influencing pigment arrangement

What are the side effects of retinoids?

When using a retinoid, people commonly experience some skin irritation and dryness. Other common side effects that may occur include redness, itchiness, or peeling skin. These side effects are linked to strength of the retinoids in the product. Over-the-counter retinoids are less potent than prescription retinoids, which means they contain a weaker retinoid, but one that is likely to be more tolerable for the skin.^4,6

Is there scientific evidence for retinoids?

Following the realisation that retinoids may have potential in ageing in the 1980s, they were investigated in short-term clinical studies that showed improvements in wrinkles and skin structure. As these studies showed continued improvement in skin condition, long-term studies were conducted to better understand the effects of retinoids. These studies evaluated the products over a period of 6 months, showing significant improvements in the clinical signs of photoageing, including reduced hyperpigmentation, less fine and course wrinkling, and improved skin texture – which persisted beyond the 6-month duration of the studies.³

Where can I buy retinoids?

Products containing retinoids are available both over-the-counter in a pharmacy and with a prescription. Those available over-the-counter contain a less potent retinoid than those that require a prescription. You can learn more about the difference between over-the-counter and prescription-strength retinoids, and which one may be right for you, here.

Preventative anti-ageing skincare

When you are considering anti-ageing skincare methods, keep in mind that prevention of sun damage is critical. Ways to protect your skin from sun damage include:^7-9

• Wearing a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a high sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 30 
• Avoiding spending time in the sun during peak hours of UV radiation intensity 
• Wearing protective clothing, a hat and sunglasses

How do I access a prescription retinoid?

Because they require a prescription, a doctor or dermatologist needs to determine whether a more potent retinoid is right for you. This will involve looking at your skin, particularly any areas of concern, and asking about your lifestyle. Meeting with a doctor or dermatologist doesn’t necessarily require a face-to-face appointment. Advice is also available virtually through Rosemary Health – start your online visit today.